Goat Birria

Birria de chivo is the original: goat, not beef, braised in a deep red chili adobo until it falls apart. The braising liquid becomes consomme, the cup of brick-red broth you dip the tacos in, and it is every bit as important as the meat. It takes an afternoon, but almost all of it is hands-off while the pot does its work. This is the dish that sells people on goat, since the lean meat drinks up the adobo and the long braise turns it silky. Beef birria is everywhere now, but the goat version is where it started, and it is worth seeking out. Start with bone-in goat shoulder from a farm you trust and a handful of dried chilies.

Why this recipe works

• Goat shoulder has the connective tissue that melts into a glossy, rich consomme over a long braise.
• Toasting and soaking the dried chilies builds a deeper, more layered adobo than chili powder ever could.
• A long, gentle braise means the meat shreds with a fork and the fat renders into the broth.
• Cooking on the bone keeps the lean goat moist and enriches the consomme with body and flavor.

Ingredients

• 4 lb (1.8 kg) bone-in goat shoulder, cut into large chunks
• Kosher salt
• 4 guajillo chilies, stemmed and seeded
• 3 ancho chilies, stemmed and seeded
• 2 chiles de arbol (optional, for heat)
• 6 cloves garlic
• 1 tablespoon cumin seed
• 3 whole cloves
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• 1 onion, quartered
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 cups water or stock

Substitutions: lamb shoulder makes a fine version if goat is hard to find. Add a piece of cinnamon stick to the adobo for a warmer, more aromatic broth.

How to make it

1. Make the adobo. Toast the dried chilies in a dry pan until fragrant, then soak them in hot water for 15 minutes. Blend them with the garlic, cumin, cloves, oregano, vinegar, and a little soaking water into a smooth paste.
2. Season the goat. Salt the goat chunks well and coat them all over with the adobo paste. For the deepest flavor, let them marinate for an hour or overnight.
3. Build the braise. Add the goat, onion, bay leaves, and water to a Dutch oven so the liquid comes most of the way up the meat.
4. Braise low. Cover and braise in a 325F oven for 3 to 3.5 hours, until the meat shreds easily with a fork.
5. Shred and serve. Lift out the goat and shred it, skim the fat from the consomme, and serve the meat in warm tortillas with a cup of the consomme for dipping.

Pro tips and common mistakes

• Toast the chilies but do not burn them. A few seconds too long turns the adobo bitter, so pull them the moment they smell fragrant.
• Soak the chilies before blending for a smooth, silky adobo rather than a gritty one.
• Do not skip skimming the consomme. Lifting off the excess fat gives you a cleaner, brighter broth to dip into.
• We braise in a cast iron Dutch oven and shred with metal forks, never plastic.
• For quesatacos, dip the tortillas in the fat that rises to the top, add cheese and meat, and crisp them on a griddle.

Storage and leftovers

Birria keeps for up to 4 days in the fridge and is even better the next day. Store the shredded meat and the consomme separately so you can reheat and reassemble as you like. Both freeze well for up to 3 months. Leftover birria is endlessly useful: crisped quesatacos, a birria ramen with the consomme as broth, loaded fries, or simply piled over rice. The consomme alone, warmed with a squeeze of lime, is a fortifying bowl on its own.

What to serve with it

• Warm corn tortillas and a cup of consomme for dipping.
• Diced onion, cilantro, and lime wedges.
• A fresh salsa or pickled onions.
• Rice and beans to round out the plate.

Consomme is the whole point

What sets birria apart from any other braise is the consomme, the deeply flavored red broth left in the pot. It is not a byproduct to be thrown away; it is half the dish. As the goat braises, the chilies, spices, rendered fat, and gelatin from the bones all meld into a broth that is rich, savory, and a little spicy, the color of brick. You serve it in a small cup alongside the tacos so each bite can be dunked, and that interplay of crisp tortilla, tender meat, and hot broth is what makes people fall for birria. Do not shortcut it. Give the braise its time, skim the fat, taste and adjust the salt, and treat the consomme with the same care as the meat. A great bowl of birria lives or dies on that broth, so make enough that everyone gets a generous cup and there is some left over for tomorrow.

Nutrition

About 400 calories, 44g protein, 20g fat, and 8g carbs per serving. These are estimates and vary with the exact cut, trim, and any substitutions.

FAQ

What is birria de chivo?
The original goat version of birria, braised in a dried chili adobo until it falls apart, served with a cup of consomme for dipping.

What chilies go in birria?
Guajillo and ancho form the base, with chiles de arbol added for heat. Toasting and soaking them makes the adobo deep and smooth.

How long does goat birria take?
About 3 to 3.5 hours at 325F, until the meat shreds easily. The adobo can be made ahead to save time.

What is consomme?
The rich red braising broth left in the pot, served alongside the tacos for dipping. It is as important as the meat.

Can I use beef or lamb?
Yes. Beef chuck or lamb shoulder both work, though goat is the traditional and, we think, the best.

Where to buy the goat

Goat can be hard to find in a supermarket, so a farm is your best bet. Use our Find a Farmer directory to source goat near you.

Learn more in our guide to goat shoulder and our full guide to goat. For more goat, try our goat barbacoa or Jamaican curry goat. New to braising? Read our guide to cooking meat by every method.