Veal Chop with Chanterelles and Sage Butter Recipe

A good veal chop does not need much. It needs heat, a little patience, and something to spoon over it at the end. We built this one around chanterelles and a sage brown butter because the two of them turn a simple pan sear into something you would order out. The mushrooms bring a fruity, almost apricot note that plays against the sweetness of the meat, and the butter carries it all together. One tip before you start: pull the chops from the fridge 30 minutes early. Cold meat hitting a hot pan sears unevenly and overcooks at the edges before the center catches up. Look for pasture raised, rose veal from a farm you trust. The color should be pink, not white, and the fat should smell clean.

Why this recipe works

• Bone-in loin chops stay juicy. The bone slows heat at the center, so you get a wide margin before the meat dries out.
• A cast iron pan holds temperature through the sear, which builds the brown crust that carries most of the flavor.
• Basting with butter and sage bastes flavor into the crust and lets you feel doneness by touch, not guesswork.
• Cooking the chanterelles in the same pan pulls up the browned bits, so nothing good goes to waste.

Ingredients

For the chops

• 2 bone-in veal loin chops, about 12 oz (340 g) each, 1.25 inches thick
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to finish
• 0.5 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil (grapeseed or avocado)

For the chanterelles and sage butter

• 8 oz (225 g) fresh chanterelles, torn into bite-size pieces
• 4 tablespoons (57 g) unsalted butter, grass-fed if you can find it
• 1 small shallot, minced
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 8 fresh sage leaves
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• Flaky salt, to finish

Substitutions: hen of the woods, oyster, or cremini mushrooms all work when chanterelles are out of season. No veal on hand? Thick bone-in pork loin chops take the same method, just cook them a touch further.

How to make it

1. Temper and season the chops. Set the chops on the counter for 30 minutes so they lose the fridge chill. Pat them very dry, then salt both sides with the kosher salt and add the pepper. Dry meat browns. Wet meat steams.
2. Clean the chanterelles. Brush off any grit with a dry pastry brush or a damp cloth. We do not soak them, because they drink water and then refuse to brown. Tear the larger ones so every piece cooks at the same rate.
3. Sear the chops. Heat the oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Lay the chops away from you and leave them alone for 3 to 4 minutes, until a deep crust forms. Flip once and sear the second side for another 3 minutes.
4. Baste and pull at temperature. Drop in 2 tablespoons of the butter, the smashed garlic, and half the sage. Tilt the pan and spoon the foaming butter over the meat for a minute. Pull the chops when a thermometer reads 140 to 142F at the center, staying off the bone.
5. Rest the chops. Move them to a warm plate and rest for 8 to 10 minutes. The temperature climbs to 145 to 150F as they sit, which is where veal is juicy and just past pink. Skip the rest and the juices run out on the board.
6. Sear the chanterelles. Return the pan to medium-high, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the shallot, and let the mushrooms sit in a single layer for 2 minutes before stirring. Cook 6 to 8 minutes total, until the edges turn golden and any liquid cooks off.
7. Finish with sage butter. Add the rest of the sage and let it crisp for 30 seconds, then stir in the lemon juice and a pinch of flaky salt. Spoon the mushrooms and pan butter over the rested chops and serve.

Pro tips and common mistakes

• Use a heavy pan. Thin pans drop in temperature the moment the meat lands and you get gray meat instead of a crust. Our cast iron holds its heat.
• We cook with wood and metal, never plastic, so we skip nonstick here. A metal fish spatula or tongs will not scratch cast iron and will not shed anything into the butter.
• Do not crowd the mushrooms. Piled up, they steam and go slack. Give them room and let each piece touch the pan.
• Trust a thermometer over a timer. Chop thickness varies, and 30 seconds is the difference between pink and dry.
• Salt early, not just at the end. Salt needs a few minutes to work into the surface for a seasoned crust.

Storage and leftovers

Cooked veal keeps in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Store the chops and mushrooms together so the butter keeps them moist. To reheat without drying the meat, slice it off the bone, warm it in a low oven at 275F until just heated through, or lay the slices over a hot bowl of pasta and let the residual heat do the work. We do not recommend freezing cooked veal chops, since the texture turns grainy on the thaw.

What to serve with it

• Soft polenta or mashed potatoes to catch the sage butter.
• A sharp green salad with lemon and shaved parmesan to cut the richness.
• Blistered green beans or charred broccolini for a little bitterness.
• A dry white like a Chardonnay, or a light red such as Pinot Noir.

Nutrition

About 560 calories, 50g protein, 38g fat, and 6g carbs per serving. These are estimates and vary with the exact cut, trim, and any substitutions.

FAQ

What internal temperature should veal be cooked to?
We pull veal chops at 140 to 142F and let them rest to 145 to 150F. The USDA safe minimum for veal is 145F followed by a 3 minute rest, which this method clears.

Can I use a different mushroom?
Yes. Hen of the woods, oyster, and cremini all brown well. Chanterelles bring a fruity note, but the method does not change.

Do I need to soak chanterelles?
No. Brush or wipe them clean instead. Soaking makes them waterlogged, and wet mushrooms will not brown.

What if I can only find boneless veal?
Boneless loin works, but it cooks faster and dries out sooner. Drop the sear to 2 to 3 minutes per side and check the temperature early.

Can I make the sage butter ahead?
You can brown the butter with sage a day ahead and refrigerate it, then rewarm it in the pan while the chops rest.

Where to buy the meat

Good veal is worth sourcing with care. We look for pasture raised, rose veal from small farms rather than the supermarket case. Use our Find a Farmer directory to track down veal near you and ask the farmer how the animals were raised.

For more on this cut, see our guide to the veal loin, where the chops and medallions come from, and our broader guide to veal, its cuts and flavor. If you want another veal night, try our veal osso buco or the mushroom-forward chicken marsala with wild mushrooms. New to pan searing? Start with our guide to cooking meat by every method.

By Alfred Cleaver